Many moods of Matheran_June 2014

A quaint hill station which has retained it's charm for all ages. It's a quick and secret off -the-beaten-path getaway for most Mumbaikars (90 kms from the city) and one of India's best kept secrets. The residents are warm and welcoming and have worked with local authorities to ensure that modern conviniences and surge of tourists has not tainted the place.

It's an eco-sensitive zone but you still get the odd - idiot from the city who may want to play loud music and litter the place with packets of chips. This largely has led to the monkey menace and their somewhat aggressive behaviour. So if you are travelling with children please do not hand them polybags of goodies as the monkeys can and often do scare and snatch. No vehicles are permitted in the city except for an ambulance and a fire engine. The police patrol proudly on smartly turned out horses - one of the few places in India to which has mounted constabulary (inherited from it's British link to history). Matheran (pronounced maa-thae-raan) is truly a place for all seasons.
 

While some may tell you that it's best to go only during summers but I've seen Matheran in all seasons (yes even monsoons and I was spellbound) and so recommend you to try it and experience the magic. It is advisable to carry a wind cheater / rain gear and something wollen even during the peak summer season.

A lot has already been written about Matheran so you can well imagine it's appeal - day trip to long weekends, it's toy train (runs on narrow gauge -about 2 feet wide rail track), muddy red clay roads, horse riding, hand pulled carts, notorious and enterprising monkeys, surprise thunder showers, pleasant temperatures, Parsi cuisine (keema pao, caramel custard at Lord's Hotel - comfortable accomodation and very warm hospitality too) , the option of Jain or Gujarati thallis is also not far away, etc.

Most folks can drive up to Dasturi Naka via a taxi or personal car and the facilty for an overnight parking at a reasonable cost is available. Others enjoy the chug chug of the toy train from Neral to Matheran Station which slowly but diligently winds its way around some rather steep curves. From time to time this diligent little locomotive can be seen halting in gorgeous locales well simply beciase the engine overheated while navigating some dangerous curves and needs some time to cool off . You can also take the toy train from Dasturi Naka to Matheran station (approx. 9 kms - it's a fairly quick journey but unique as well since you also have the locals and tourists walking alongside the train track. The speed of the train is such that you can actually hope on and off as you please (I did not try it though). The walk along the train track is a gentle climb and can be tackled by any self respecting couch potato. It is a shorter walk than the mule track!

Most hotels offer decent fare and accomodation. The few closest to the station and park are the noisiest and a lot of crowds choose to stay and be close to the market place. For those who wish to stay a bit away from the humdrum, you have options like "Verandah in the Forest", "Lords", "Fleetwood" -   both of which are closer to Charlotte Lake and a tad pricey. If you are unable to find accommodation at times, the locals will work out a homestay for you too!!

Like all hill stations it has it's long list of "points" i.e. places from where you get beautiful views of the Sahyadari ranges. Lord's hotel itself has a beautiful view from within its premises.  My last visit to Matheran was June 2014, just when the monsoons were round the corner and the enervating heat and humidity of Mumbai was enough to drive one up the wall. The taxi cab dropped us at Dasturi Naka, we purchased entry tickets and walked into Matheran.

This time we were booked at Verandah in the Forest (Neemrana property). We took the train track and gradually walked up to the Matheran station (there is a mule track too but that takes longer). Verandah in the forest is the same distance as Dasturi Naka to Matheran station so if you don't like walking or are exhausted then consider the hand cart / horse riding to get you there.

 

We stayed in one of the ground floor rooms at the property - a huge rambling bungalow. Apart from us there was only 1 other family who had an adorable chatterbox of a daughter. The hospitality and food was worth the trip, however they can improve the upkeep of the property and tapestry.  There was carrom to keep us busy and a well stocked reading library too much to my delight. Charlotte Lake is close by - hardly 5 mins walking distance from the property and during tourist season people attempt boating, zip lining etc as well. You can often spot the ubiquitous kingfisher patiently biding its time close by. Since it was monsoon time, the place was very peaceful with a handful of bird watchers, local chaiwala and a couple who were exploring Matheran on horse back and taking selfies.

I had so much fun going for long walks in the rain, getting enveloped in the mist which would soon turn into a drizzle and then a heavy torrential downpour. Coming back to the property for some warm tea, croissants and cosy cabin made it worthwhile.

While on walks we met an intrepid green snake who was also out for an afternoon walk. Matheran is a place where you can walk for hours and not get tired or lost (it's tiny enough for you to find your way back and the residents are happy to guide you in the right direction). Of course the red clay mud or laterite is a pain to scrap off your boots.

The day of the return we had a very thick fog descend and so called for hand carts as it would have been challenging for my mother to walk in such weather. The hotel staff helped arrange this for us. We reached the station and luckily the toy train was expected to run that day - it usually closes during monsoons as sometimes the track gets damaged by fallen trees, rocks / landslides or even patches are washed away by gushing mountain waters.

Tickets purchased, we waited patiently for the train to arrive. Magically the mist lifted and the sun came out. Soon we heard the whistle of the train and it rolled in merrily. Once it did, the engine had to be changed and coupled - interested passengers enthusiastically pitched in with railway officials to do this while the famous Hanuman monkeys looked down with condescension.

The coupe had seating area which had captions warning passengers of incline, smoking hazards and other dos -donts. The station master came out and rang the old bell (yes, it's a made in UK model which is well polished and maintained) and gave a green signal by waving the flag. Passengers cheered and waived to everyone (me included) .....even those who knew no one...such is the simplicity of the place.

Our taxi was waiting for us at Dasturi Naka and we came back home without any further adventure. For me, Matheran is one of the best places to go for long leisurly gentle walks, explore at snail's pace, relax and be in the lap of nature. I've travelled to Matheran on more than one occasion and have always come back recharged and at peace.